The Bay Area has entered its moment of natural wine ubiquity, when seemingly every new bar is a natural wine bar and every new restaurant has a natural wine list.
That means that the cycle of what feels new, cool and interesting moves quickly. For now, at least, the latest, hottest natural wine spot is Key Klub, which opened in lower Nob Hill in December. The rise of this particular bar reveals a lot about the state of natural wine in San Francisco, showing how this subculture has evolved from something extreme and exclusive to something quotidian and inclusive. Key Klub is proof that the category of the natural wine bar is closely approaching the point of meaning everything and nothing.